Can’t I just start my project already if I follow the pattern and just use the prescribed hook size?! Why even bother with a gauge swatch—it takes too much time!
Sorry… but you should NEVER skip your gauge swatch!
Gauge swatching is CRITICAL to getting the best possible results with your finished project AND ensuring it looks good and fits correctly. If you’ve never gauge swatched before, or you have but you need a little help, this post will explain why it’s important and break down exactly how to do it.
4 Reasons Why You Should Gauge Swatch
- If your gauge is different than the designer of the pattern you’re following, then your finished garment WILL NOT match the intended measurements for your size.
- It’s actually pretty common for a designer’s gauge to be different than yours. And, there’s nothing wrong with you if you need a different size hook to get the same results. I’ve had testers go up or down 2-3 hook sizes to match my gauge. We’re all different!
- The way each of us hold and tension the yarn can vary!
- Different yarns within the same category (like 4-worsted) also have a big range in thickness. This can really impact gauge!
- Not all crochet hooks are created equal. Surprise… they aren’t always perfectly sized. I’ve noticed variations between some of the hooks I have in my own collection.
- If you want to double check the size of your hooks, there are hook/needle size tools available to measure with!
- Gauge swatching gives you a preview of how your chosen yarn will work with the pattern.
- What does the fabric look like? Does it have a nice drape, or is it too stiff, or too loose/holey?
- If there’s texture, does it show well and hold shape?
- How does your yarn respond to blocking? *There are instructions in this post on how to block your swatch. (PLZ READ ME IF YOU NEED HELP WITH BLOCKING GARMENTS)
How to Gauge Swatch: Step by Step Instructions
Step 1: Choose a yarn that is the correct weight as indicated in your pattern.
Step 2: Start with the recommended crochet hook size from the pattern.
Step 3: Make your swatch. Always swatch flat for projects worked flat, swatch in the round for projects worked in the round.
Some patterns have specific gauge swatch instructions. If that’s the case, follow those.
If there aren’t any swatch instructions in the pattern:
Find the listed gauge in the pattern. It will state how many stitches and rows are in 4 inches/10 cm. It should also list the stitch pattern used for the gauge.
For example: 12 sts (stitches) / 10 rows in dc (double crochet) in 4 inches/10 cm
I always like to add at least 2 additional stitches, and 1 to 2 extra rows to the given amount for my swatch for the most accurate measurement. (The edge stitches/turning chains can be a little wonky.)
For a gauge of 12 stitches, I would chain: 12 + 2 extra sts + 3 sts for the turning chain = 15 sts (or however many turning chs indicated in the pattern, depending on whether or not the chain counts as a stitch)
Work in the prescribed stitch pattern for 1 to 2 more rows than indicated in the prescribed guage. From our example (12 sts/10 rows), that would be 10 rows + 2 = 12 rows in dc
Step 4: Block and dry your swatch.
- Wet the swatch by soaking it in water.
- Gently squeeze out excess water
- Press with a wash cloth or towel.
- Lay flat to dry. Be sure to let your swatch dry completely before measuring. (to speed things up you can use a hair dryer on the cool setting, or aim a fan on your swatch)
Step 5: Measure your dry swatch with measuring tape or a gauge ruler. Hold the ruler horizontally to count how many stitches you have in 4 inches/10 cm. Hold the ruler vertically to count how many rows you have.
Step 6: Compare your results to the intended gauge in the pattern. Adjust your hook as needed.
- Go UP a hook size if you have more stitches and/or rows per 4 inches/10cm.
- Go DOWN a hook size if you have less stitches and/or rows.
How to swatch in the round:
When swatching in the round, you’ll need to chain double the amount of stitches than you would for a flat swatch. From our example before of: 12 sts/10 rows, we went with 15 stitches and 12 rows for our swatch to have a little extra for an accurate measurement. So, when working in the round, you’ll need to chain 30, and then join in the round. Then you’d work your same 12 rounds (rather than rows), then block, and measure, and adjust (see above).
Q & A
What if my gauge swatch is too large?
The project will turn out way too big. If it’s an article of clothing, this can make or break whether it fits you, and you ever wear it. Oversized can be great, but only if that’s what you’re going for. Oftentimes if a pattern is supposed to be oversized, it’s already built into your size through what’s called “positive ease”. For example the designer might say the garment has 4-6 inches of positive ease, which means they’ve already added an extra 4-6 inches on top of the standard measurements for your size. *double check their schematic to be sure.
What if my gauge swatch is too small?
In my opinion, this is even worse… you may not be able to even wear your garment, and it won’t be very comfortable.
What if my stitch gauge matches, and only my ROW GAUGE is off?
Check out the golden loop technique to adjust your row gauge without changing hook size. If your stitch gauge is on target, going up or down a hook size isn’t necessary.
OR, if you are making something for yourself, and it’s not a crochet test, (for tests you need to follow the pattern as written) you can simply add or omit extra rows to get to the desired length.
Is there ever a time when gauge doesn’t matter?
Maybe for a scarf or shawl. But I’d still recommend swatching to see if you like the resulting fabric created with the hook size and yarn you’ve chosen. (drape, texture, stiff/flimsy?)
So We Agree… Gauge Swatching is Important, Right?!
When you’re following a pattern, gauge swatching is THE most important step to ensure that it will turn out how you want it to. Swatching tells you if you need to change your hook size from the size the designer used in the pattern. It also tells you how the resulting fabric will look and feel, so you know for sure that you’ll like it.
Swatching is the best way to know if your garment will fit you and look good! So please please please, take the time to do your gauge swatch!
IT’S WORTH IT! So go work it. 😉
Be sure and let me know if you have any questions, or if need me to explain anything in more depth! I’m happy to help.