Have you been wanting to try your hand at making a sweater, but you’re not sure if you could get through a crochet pattern? I think you can totally do it, and I’d love to help you along the way!

The Autumn Air Pullover is now a FREE oversized crochet sweater pattern that’s quick and easy to make! It’s extra cozy to wear when the weather is chilly, and I can’t get enough of the v-neck and super cute slouchy fit.

A Great First Crochet Sweater Pattern!

This is the perfect crochet pattern for a first time garment maker! This pattern was tested back in Fall of 2019, and for most of the testers, it was their first sweater ever! I’ll never forget the excitement that all the makers felt when they completed the test. They were so proud to finish their sweaters, and to have made something that they can actually wear. 

Up until now, the Autumn Air Pullover has only been available as a paid crochet pattern.  I decided to add it for free on the blog specifically for new crocheters who want to make a sweater, but aren’t ready to try a paid pattern just yet. When I first started crocheting, I mainly followed free patterns that were available online. I didn’t try paid patterns until I felt more confident with my skill level, and I knew that I could actually get through a pattern, and also be happy with the results. I’m so excited to share this sweater pattern with you, and I hope that it’s the first of many handmade garments you’ll make!

Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links and if you go through them to make a purchase I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. 

Pattern Details

Does that all sound good? If it does, and you’re ready to learn how to make this super cozy, FREE oversized crochet sweater, then keep on reading! The pattern is easy to follow and has tons of pictures to guide you through. There is a video that shows you how to create the gorgeous ribbing around the bottom edge and on the sleeve cuffs.

Ease

What is ease?

It’s how much bigger or smaller a finished garment is than your body measurement. If the measurement of the finished garment is bigger than your body measurement, that’s referred to as positive ease. But if the finished measurement is less than your body measurement, that’s called negative ease. This sweater has 5-7 inches of positive ease for an oversized, extra cozy fit. For this sweater, the ease is based off of your bust measurement.  Measure the fullest part of your bust, add 5-7 inches, and choose the size closest to that measurement (all listed in the pattern sizing chart below).

Yarn

The Autumn Air Pullover is made in worsted weight yarn, which is widely available at craft stores, and works up fast.  You can make this pullover sweater with budget-friendly yarn and get a beautiful result. I used Caron Simply Soft which is inexpensive, comes in a ton of colors, and has a gorgeous sheen. 

You will need between 1100- 2250 yards of yarn depending on your size. Follow the size chart in the pattern to see your estimated yardage. It’s a good idea to grab a little bit more when you’re yarn shopping, just to be on the safe side.

Here is a list of a few yarn ideas (compiled from the yarn my testers used) that work well for this pattern:

Caron Simply Soft

Lion Brand Jeans 

Lion Brand Feels Like Butta

Lion Brand Pound of Love

Lion Brand Heartland

Gauge

It is so, so important to meet gauge when you are making a garment. FIT IS EVERYTHING, and if your gauge is different the garment won’t have the correct intended ease or overall look. If your gauge is bigger than mine, your sweater will be too big. If your gauge is smaller than mine, it will be too small. Being off even by one stitch can really throw you off because that’s one stitch for every 4 inches of fabric. That adds up! If you’re making a 47 inch sweater, the size of your finished sweater could be off 3-4 inches when you’re off by 1 stitch. That really changes the fit. This sweater already has a lot of positive ease, you don’t want more than intended.

This pattern has gauge swatch instructions so that you can make a small swatch in your chosen yarn with the recommended crochet hook, and see if you have the same number of stitches and rows as me. If you have too many stitches, go up a hook size until you get gauge. If you have too few stitches, go down a hook size until you get gauge. 

I know it’s a pain and you just want to get going on your sweater already, but just do it. It’s worth the effort to have a sweater you can actually wear! To read more about making garments that fit check out my blog post here!

Autumn Air Pullover- Free Crochet Pattern

Okay… get ready! It’s time for the pattern instructions. Just one last thing- this pattern is available right here in this blog post for free, but if you want the ad-free pdf, there is a paid version available in my pattern shop HERE. 

Materials:

Medium Weight 4 Yarn: Pattern Sample was made with Caron Simply Soft in the color Autumn Maize

Hook: 5mm or whichever size needed to match gauge

Tapestry Needle

Stitch Markers

Tape Measure

Scissors

Gauge & Swatch Instructions:

9 rows & 14 dc (7 dc groups) in 4 x 4 inches 

Gauge is made in main sweater stitch pattern: dc groups. 

Follow instructions below to create your gauge swatch:

Ch 19

Row 1: 2 dc in 5th ch from the hook (sk ch counts as dc) then *sk 1 ch, 2dc in the next ch* across until the last 2 ch,  sk 1 ch, 1 dc in the last ch, turn. 

Row 2-10: ch 3 (counts as dc), *2 dc btw next 2 dc* across, dc in top of ch 3, turn.

Sizing:
XS (S, M, L, XL) ((2X, 3X, 4X, 5X))

Note: The finished dimensions include about 5-7 inches of positive ease.  To find your size measure your bust and then add 5-7”. Choose the closest finished bust size from the chart below.

Techniques and abbreviations (US terms):

dc- double crochet

ss- slip stitch

ch- chain 

sc- single crochet

btw- between

whip stitch- to seam the sleeves to the body and the cuff portion

mattress stitch- for seaming the side body and lengthwise down the sleeve 

Skill Level: Easy

Pattern Notes:

1. This is a simple pattern where the body is worked in horizontal rows making one large piece starting with the back portion, then continuing into two front panels which are seamed together up the middle leaving an opening for the v-neck, then up the sides leaving an opening for the sleeves. 
2. Sleeves are worked flat then seamed up along the side before attaching to the body.
3. The slip stitches in the ribbing need to be worked with loose tension, otherwise it can be very tedious to get the single crochets in the following row.
4. Pictures shown in the pattern are of a size large sample.
5. Larger bust sizes will give the sweater more of a high-low fit (longer in the back) To avoid this, a few more rows can be added to the front panels if you prefer. 
6. The ribbing will cinch in the waist approximately 23% smaller than the bust and it will bring the waist in closer to your actual measurement.  A modification is included in the body ribbing section if you’d prefer no waist shaping.  

Pattern Instructions

Starting with the Back Side of the Body:

Ch 65(73,77,83,91)((99,105,113,119)) 

Row 1: 2 dc in 5th ch from the hook (sk ch counts as dc) then *sk 1 ch, 2dc in the next ch* across until the last 2 ch,  sk 1 ch, 1 dc in the last ch, turn. 62(70,74,80,88)((96,102,110,116)) dc

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), *2 dc btw next 2 dc* across, dc in top of ch 3, turn.  62(70,74,80,88)((96,102,110,116)) dc

Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 40(40,42,44,46)((46,48,48,50)) rows

Continue on to Make First Side of the Front Panel:

Fold the back panel in half to locate the center stitch and place a removable stitch marker.

**For sizes XS, S, M, 3X & 4X the center will be between two dc groups.**

**For sizes L, XL, 2X & 5X the center will be in the center 2dc group.**  

Row 1: ch 3 (counts as dc), *2 dc btw next 2 dc* until last group before stitch marker.  1 dc in the center where the stitch marker is, turn.  32(36,38,40,44)((48,52,56,58)) dc

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc btwn next 2 dc* across, dc in top of ch 3, turn. 32(36,38,40,44)((48,52,56,58)) dc

Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 40(40,42,44,46)((46,48,48,50)) rows to complete one of the front panels. Fasten off. 

**Note** If you have a large bust, you may choose to add several more rows to increase the length of the front panels depending on your fit preferences.  To add 2 inches add 4-5 extra rows, for 4 more inches add 9 extra rows. 

Second Side of the Front Panel:

Begin the second front panel by attaching the yarn to the beginning row in the center where the stitch marker is.  

Row 1: ch 3 (counts as dc) *2 dc btwn next 2 dc* across, dc in top of ch 3, turn.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc btwn next 2 dc* across, 1 dc in the center ch 3 coming from where the stitch maker is, turn. 

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 for the same number of rows as the first panel.  Fasten off.

Seaming the body:

Fold the two top panels over the back panel, right side facing you.

Attach yarn to the bottom  inner corner of the left front panel (where it says “start here” in the left photo below), *place 1 sc in the first side dc, 2 sc in the next side dc, *continue alternating 1sc, then 2 sc* in each side dc around the entire neckline.   

Measure 10” or whatever size opening you would like for the neckhole and place a stitch marker through both panels.  Try on to ensure the neckhole is big enough.

Carefully line the two panels up and seam the two panels together up until you reach the marker for the neckhole. You can seam with sc through both panels to create a rib down the center of the garment OR choose to whip stitch or slip stitch if a less visible seam is preferred.

Seam the Side Body 

Measure 6.5”(7”,7.5”,8”,8.5”)((9”,9.5”10”,10.5”)) for the opening of the armhole on each side and place a stitch marker.

With right side facing, seam up the side body with a mattress stitch, up to stitch marker leaving the armhole open for where the sleeve will be attached.  Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the sleeve on later.

Body Ribbing:

Video Tutorial of Ribbing

Attach yarn to the bottom center of the body portion.

Row 1: Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 13 ch. (14sc)

(pictured below, left image)

Connect to the last row of the main body with 1 ss into each of the next 2 sts, turn.

(pictured below, right image)

Row 2: Keeping the tension very loose, ss in each sc back across to the end. (14ss)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each ss back down, then connect to the main body panel with 1 ss into each of the next 2 sts, turn.

Repeat Row 2 & 3 until you reach the beginning of the round & connect to the first row of ribbing.

**Modification Note: If you would prefer not to have the waist cinch in as much, follow the instructions below instead of the underlined section of Row 1 & 3 above

Each time connecting the ribbing to the body Row 2: alternate one row placing 1 ss into 1 st of the body, and on the next row placing 1 ss into the next 2 sts **

Sleeves (Make 2):

Ch  47(49,51,55,59)((63,67,71,75))

Row 1: 2 dc in 5th ch from the hook (sk ch counts as dc) then *sk 1 ch, 2dc in the next ch* across until the last 2 ch,  sk 1 ch, 1 dc in the last ch, turn. 44(46,48,52,56)((60,64,68,70)) dc

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), *2 dc btw next 2 dc* across, dc in top of ch 3, turn. 44(46,48,52,56)((60,64,68,70)) dc

Repeat Row 2 for a total of 34(34,34,36,36)((38,38,40,40)) rows or as many as you’d like for the length of your sleeve, then continue onto ribbing for the cuff.  

For the perfect fit, try the sweater on and measure from where the shoulder ends on your arm to mid-palm. Subtract 3 inches for the cuff & make your sleeve to that measurement.

Ribbing for Cuff:

Sizes ((2X-5X)) only:

*1 sc in each of the next ((8,7,6,5)) sts, then sc 2 tgt* across. (to cinch in the sleeve more before beginning the ribbing)

Sizes XS-XL should cinch in enough as is by going straight into the cuff ribbing.

All Sizes:

R1: Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 13 ch. (14sc)

Connect to the last row of the main sleeve with 1 ss into each of the next two sts, turn.

Row 2: Keeping the tension very loose, ss in each sc to the end (14ss)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each ss back down to the sleeve, connect to the main sleeve by ss into the next two sts, turn.

Repeat Row 2 & 3 until you reach the end.

Fold the sleeve lengthwise with wrong side facing, whip stitch the cuff together.

Turn the sleeve right side out, and mattress stitch the rest of the length of the sleeve.  Fasten off.

Attach the sleeves to the body:

With right side facing, lay the sleeve over the body matching the openings.  The seam of the sleeve should line up with the seam of the side body. Whip stitch the sleeve to the body. Be sure not to not to pull the stitches too tightly. Go over the armpit area thoroughly and fasten off. 

Finally, weave in any loose ends, and ROCK your new cozy Autumn Air Pullover!

Thank you so much for making my design—it means the world to me!

 I hope that you’ve enjoyed following this pattern!  If you have any questions along the way, please don’t hesitate to contact me via email at: tigerseyehandmade@gmail.com

For more free crochet patterns on the blog click here!

Or check out my advanced-beginner & intermediate paid patterns here in my pattern shop. There are also ad-free pdfs for all of the easy patterns that are shared here free on the blog.

I would love to see your finished piece!  If you post it on IG tag me @tigerseyehandmade & use the hashtag #AutumnAirPullover  to share it with our amazing crafting community online!